BARREL STYLE METAL TILE
STEP #1-Underlayment Preparation
Determine the squareness of each roofing area by measuring from corner to corner. It is imperative that the roofing area be square. Procedures must be taken to correct any out of square conditions. All installations require a watertight underlayment for protection against moisture due to condensation. The minimum underlayment requirement for a plywood deck is a single layer of
30 lb. roofing felt paper. Valleys and roof slopes, which are less than 3:12, are required to have a peal and stick underlayment such as Polystick T/U Plus.
STEP #2 -Eave Trim (Starter Strip)
The eave trim (BT/E-303) is installed in a straight line at the eave line. If it is determined that the eave is not straight, a string line should be placed at the eave line to act as a reference to determine the straightness of the panel installation. Each piece of eave trim must be overlapped a minimum of 3-inches and installed per local code. Applications with lower pitches or problem areas may require an ice and watershield underlayment to further prevent water intrusion. This underlayment would be applied per manufacturers’ recommendations directly over the eave trim.
STEP #3-Barrel Style Metal Tile Panels
Florida Metal’s Barrel Tile is a vertical panel that has a 40-inch coverage width and custom cut to lengths of 40′-0. It is installed vertically from the eave to the ridge with each panel covering 40-inches in width. The panels are installed from right to left, with the first panel being placed at the right edge of the roof with additional panels overlapping (1)-one corrugation with a progression to the left.
SPECIAL NOTE: When handling the panels it is imperative that the panels be totally supported or carried on edge as to not compromise the tile steps. Mishandling of the panels may result in the elongation of the tile step and compromise the ability to effectively lock each side lap and provide a weather tight fit.
Florida Metal’s Barrel Tile panels are designed to be installed starting at the right edge of the roof and overlapping panels as you progress to the left. The first panel is to be installed with the bottom edge overhanging the eave-line by 1-1/4 inches. Place the first panel approximately 4-inches past the eave-line and push the up the roof until the first tile step hits the edge of the drip edge. This is the correct placement for the panel, check for squareness to the eave-line and secure with a maximum of 4-four screws. Placing each subsequent panel 4-inches past the eave-line and again pushing the panels up the roof until the first tile step hits the drip edge. Once the panel is secure, continue by locking in each of the tile steps and screwing the side-laps completely. Start at the first step at the bottom of the panel using a 7/8″ Lap Screw, then continue this process using #12-14 x 1-1/4″ Impax Screws.
SPECIAL NOTE: To avoid scratching the panels, the overlapping panel should be placed with the right approximately 1-inch to the left of the indent line on the panel beneath. When the panel is pushed up and the first tile step meets the drip edge; the panel can be adjusted to the right so the right edge of the panel is positioned in the center of the indent line. This proper alignment will be visible at the top edge, bottom edge, and side-lap step of each panel. Proper alignment will produce straight panel edges at eave and ridge ends of the panel as well as a tightly locked side-lap at each tile step. Note that the side-laps are designed to fit tightly.
Mishandling of the panels during installation may result in slight gaps on the side-laps at the tile steps. It is recommended that any such gaps be caulked with a weatherproof sealant. This will minimize any possibility of water intrusion at the side-lap. To better ensure a weather tight installation, a 3/32″ x 3/8″ Butyl Tape can be applied at the drain channel corrugation on each side-lap.
Squareness is critical – The critical point of the panel is at the eave line. When installing panels, every third panel should be checked to ensure that the panels are running straight along the eave line. Note that some provisions must be made if the eave line is not straight. Adjustments must be made to ensure that the panels are being installed perpendicular to the eave line. Note that the first 3-three panels should be fastened into place using only a few screws. Once the panels are aligned properly and the eave edge is being maintained, the panels can be fastened per our standard screw pattern.
The Eave Closure is a polyethylene foam strip that matches the bottom profile of the panel at the eave line and has 40-inches of coverage. Closures are required under each panel at the eave line and installed per the Eave Detail. Our eave closures are supplied with adhesive on the bottom edge to assist in securing it in place during installation. The closures are also dove tailed at each end to assist in properly aligning them beneath the panel. The screws are the placed 3-inches up from the edge of the panel and are not intended to pierce the closure. Applying a screw through the closure may result in the closure tearing and minimizing its effectiveness.
Each panel must be installed using the recommended screw pattern. The top of the panel at the ridge is secured by using the applicable screw with a sealing washer at every valley per the Ridge Detail. Screws should be located within 4-inches of the ridgeline. In plywood applications; the mid-section (field) of the panel is secured using 1-1/2″ WoodZAC screws with a sealing washer in the center of each flat “low rib” positioned 5/8-inch below each tile step. The side-laps are secured using 7/8″ ImpaxTM lap screws with a sealing washer. They are positioned 1-inch to the left of the left panel edge and 5/8-inch below the tile step.
Placing the screws just below the tile step allows the screw to be hidden by the shadow line that the step creates thus increasing the roof’s aesthetics.
SPECIAL NOTE: It is required that a chalk line be used to accurately locate the horizontal location of each screw. There is a 1-1/4-inch flat section between the drain channel and side-lap indent; the lap screws should be placed at the center of this 1-1/4-inch section. All side-lap screws must have the holes pre-drilled to ensure the upper and bottom panels are fastened together correctly.
STEP #4-Gable Trim
A 24-gauge galvanized Gable Pan (BT/GP-301) is to be installed at the gable end per standard building code. The Gable Cleat (BT/GC-305 for plywood application) is installed by locking the open hem to the top of the Gable Pan (BT/GP-301) and securing to the fascia per local building codes. The Gable Trim (BT/G-305C) for plywood application is installed by positioning the trim so it extends past the eave line by 4-inches. This allows for the Gable Trim to be bent at 90 degrees and boxed or closed off at the eave line. The bottom edge of the gable should lock into the galvanized cleat; fold the gable trim over the edge of the Gable Pan and Cleat assembly secure with a #1/4-14 x 7/8″ lg. lap-screw with a sealing washer at a minimum of 16-inches on center. Overlap consecutive trim pieces by 3-inches minimum up the gable end.
STEP #5-Valley Pans
Valley Pans must be installed to ensure a watertight application. It is recommended that an Ice & Watershield such as Polystick T/U Plus be applied in the valley prior to installing the valley pans. The first valley pan is installed at the eave line and field cut per job requirements. Each subsequent valley pan is overlapped a minimum of 12-inches. A silicone sealant should be applied at the overlapped area between the valley pans. A Universal Closure 1-1/2″ wide x 2-1/2″ high is to be applied to the valley pan just inside the outside edges of the valley pan. The valley pans (BT/V-210 for plywood and 1″ x 4″ batten, and metal deck application) are secured with clips attached to the outside edge of the pans spaced at a minimum spacing of 24-inches on center. The valley pan BT/V-212 for 2″ x 4″ batten application is installed with the attachment being made to the top of the 2″ x 4″ batten.
For the open valley look that is associated with a Clay or Concrete Tile roof uses a “W” Valley Pan BT/V-215 that does not require a Valley Cover. The utilization of this valley pan requires a straight on the panel parallel to the valley line. This cut should be made 2-inches from the valley line to ensure proper drainage.
Note: The BT/V-210 requires a BT/VC-210 valley cover that is secured at the center of the valley with # 9-14 x 1-1/2″ lg. screws spaced at 18 inches apart and the valley cover edges pop riveted at every other high-rib. The BT/V-212 requires a BT/VC-212 valley cover that is secured along the edges with pop rivets spaced at every other high-rib.
STEP #6-Endwall Trim
Where the top section of the Florida Metal’s Barrel Tilepanel meets a vertical wall, an Endwall Trim (BT/EW-214B or BT/EW-214S) must be used to a guarantee a waterproof installation. This Endwall Trim is manufactured specifically to the slope of the each individual roof. After the installation of the FM’s Barrel Tile panel, the Endwall Trim is placed on the panel and secured to the vertical wall using standard building practices. The area beneath the Endwall Trim and above the FM’s Barrel Tilepanel is closed off with a polyethylene foam strip that matches the top profile of the panel. This closure is placed ½-inch from the leading edge of the Endwall Trim. The Endwall Trim is secured to the panel using a 12-14 x 1-1/4″ lg. trim screw attached every other high rib at 14-inches on center.
STEP #7-Sidewall Trim
Where the side of the Florida Metal’s Barrel Tile panel meets a vertical wall, a Sidewall Trim (BT/SW-216B or BT/SW-216S) and Sidewall Pan (BT/SWP-217) must be used to a guarantee a waterproof installation. The Sidewall Pan is installed along the base of the vertical wall and installed per local building codes and standard sheet metal practices. After the installation of the FM Barrel Metal Tile panel the Sidewall Trim is then placed on top of the panel and secured to the vertical wall using standard building practices. The outside edge of the Sidewall Trim is then secured with 12-14 x 1-1/4″ lg. trim screw at every other high-rib. Any wind driven rain that is blown sideways under the Sidewall Trim will be diverted via the Sidewall Pan to the eave.Additional measures can be taking to further insure against water intrusion. A tile flash tape such as Protecto Wrap’s Tile Flash may be applied along the edge of the panel and secured to the wall. The Sidewall Trim is then placed on the panel and secured to the vertical wall using standard building practices. For further resistance against water penetration, a Universal Closure can be placed under the Sidewall Trim ½ inch from the leading edge.
Note: Installing screws through the Universal Closure may rip or tear the closure minimizing its effectiveness.
STEP #8-Ridge Caps
Align the Ridge/Hip Cap (BT/RC-101) or Camel-back Ridge/Hip Cap (BT/RC-102) to be centered at the ridgeline. The Flat Ridge Cap (BT/RC-101) comes in 10′-0 lengths while the Camel-back Ridge Cap (BT/RC-102) has a 43-inch coverage length. Both caps have a 12-inch wide coverage. Place a ridge (outside) closure over the panel and beneath the ridge cap centered on the flat edge flanges. Fasten the ridge cap by using a 12-14 x 1-1/4″ lg. trim screw with a sealing washer at every panel high-rib. The screw should penetrate the center of the 1-1/2″ wide ridge closure at the high-rib, this will prevent the closure from tearing. Install consecutive ridge caps by overlapping or under lapping a minimum of 6-inches. Caulk must be applied at each overlap to ensure a watertight seal. Folding the ends down closes the end of the Ridge/Hip Cap (BT/RC-101). The Camel-back Ridge/Hip cap (BT/RC-102) is closed at the gable end using a 180 degree End Plug (BT/EC-103).
For a vented ridge, include our Trimline Rigid Vent Plus vent system.
STEP #9-Hip Caps
Install the Sub-Hip Trim (BT/SH-201) along the hip line; these trim pieces are supplied in 10′-0 lengths. The Florida Metal Barrel Tile panels are then cut to match the angle of the hip. The panels are then positioned on the deck aligned with the edge of the Sub-Hip Trim. With the panels installed on both sides of the Sub-Hip trim; center the 12-inch Hip Tape (BT/HT-501) on the Sub-Hip Trim and press the outside edges of the tape to the configuration of the tile. Note that this product must be applied to a clean area and cannot be stretched during installation. This product will provide a watertight seal at the hip line. The Ridge/Hip Cap is secured using 12-14 x 1-1/4″ lg. Impax Screws with a sealing washer approximately every high-rib approximately 20-inches on center. Install consecutive ridge/hip caps by overlapping or under lapping a minimum of 6-inches. Caulk should be applied at each overlap to ensure a watertight seal. The end of the Hip Cap (BT/RC-101) must be extended 4-inches past the eave edge so it can be cut and folded to close off the end. the end of the Camel-back Hip cap (BT/RC-102) is closed using a 90 degree End Cap.
STEP #10-Pipe Boots
Florida Metal Roofing Products, Inc. supplies flexible pipe flashing systems that fit any round roof penetration up to 19-inches in diameter. Cut the pliable sleeve for a minimum ½-inch of straight collar around the pipe. Slide the flashing down the pipe, using water to lubricate if necessary. Form and bend the aluminum base of the flashing to match the contours of the Florida Metal Barrel Tile panel. Seal the flashing by applying urethane/silicone sealant between the flashing and the Florida Metal Barrel Tile panel. Fasten the flashing with weather-resistant fasteners to complete the seal.
STEP #11-Touch-Up Paint
Kynar 500® touch-up paint should be used whenever a cut edge of a panel or trim is exposed. For best results, the affected area should be coated with a rust inhibitor such as Cold-Galv. and then painted with our touch up paint. For minor scratches, only touch-up the effected area; DO NOT OVERSPRAY. Touch-up paint should be applied with great care only to the affected area. There is a difference between the gloss of the touch-up paint and the factory applied Kynar 500® Paint Finish. Although the touch-up color will match exactly, the touched up area will appear duller than the factory applied Low Gloss Kynar 500® paint finish. To further ensure against oxidation, a clear lacquer can also be applied over the touch up paint in the effected area.
- It is recommended that panels be roof loaded to minimize material handling and reducing the chance of compromising the tile steps.
- Keep the Florida Metal Barrel TilePanels dry when closely stacked or keep the sheets well ventilated when subjected to wet conditions.
- When handling the panels it is imperative that the panels be totally supported or carried on edge as to not compromise the tile steps. Mishandling of the panels may result in the elongation of the tile step and compromise the ability to effectively lock each side lap.
- Great care must be taken when handling the Florida Metal Barrel TilePanels. Do not drag panels over and across other panels, this will cause scratching and scouring to the painted surface.
- Always wear soft-soled shoes when working with Florida Metal Barrel Tile. This will provide the best traction when standing and walking on the panels and they also reduce any possible damage to the tile. Always walk in the valley of a panel where it is supported.
- It is recommended that the panel be cut with a power nibbler only. Note that other cutting techniques such as plasma cutters or metal cutting circular blades; may leave metal shavings behind that will oxidize overnight. Always brush or blow off all traces of filings or chips created by cutting the panels and fastening the self-drilling screws as these filings will oxidize and cause discoloration.
- Important Note: The Kynar 500® Paint Finish is extremely slippery when wet.
- Ridge Vent Systems can be incorporated into the Florida Metal Barrel TileRoofing System as well as skylights, etc. Qualified sheet metal and roofing professionals should handle these accessories.
- Our color matched hex head screws are supplied with a vulcanized bonded washer. Screws are to be installed straight (perpendicular to the substrate) with a screw gun that has a clutch setting. Set the clutch to allow that the screw will securely hold to components but not over tightened to a point that the neoprene washer is exposed beyond the washer’s edge.